©1987 Lawrence I. Charters
Off Duty, February 1987, pp. 8-10.
There may still be snow on the ground, but in Japan, February means throwing the windows open-and spring cleaning.
Many Japanese pride themselves on their uniqueness. Some, in fact, claim that only the Japanese can understand the Japanese. Americans tend to laugh this off as something of an overstatement. Except, perhaps, in February…
To most of the rest of the world, February is the middle of winter. Snow storms are at their worst, news reports claim that, somewhere at least, this is the “coldest winter ever,” and only skiers and other hardy sportsmen greet every Arctic breeze with enthusiasm. But to the Japanese, February 4 and 5 mark Risshun, the beginning of spring.
Spring, of course, brings spring cleaning. A couple of years ago, in the middle of the worst blizzard in Tokyo’s history, I spent the morning sitting in bed (a futon, actually), electric blanket turned on high, writing letters home on a frost-covered, battery-powered computer. Because of the snow, schools and businesses were closed and the streets were deserted. Just the same, it seemed very noisy outside, so I reluctantly crawled out of bed to take a look.
Every house in the neighborhood was engaged in spring cleaning. Risshun had arrived and although the temperature was well below freezing, all the doors and windows were thrown open, futons were tossed across railings for their morning beating, children were busy sweeping, and gardeners were checking to see how their yards had survived the winter. Several neighbors stared at me as if to ask, “What are you, a slob? Get busy!”
As part of the “spring” festivities, many Buddhist temples will have bean-throwing ceremonies on Feb. 3 and 4. Sumo wrestlers, baseball stars, and other celebrities born in “Rabbit years” (1939, 1951, 1963, etc.) are enlisted to throw roasted beans into the crowds and shout “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” — Out, devils! In, good luck! People catch the beans and take them home, where they toss them into doorways, dark corners and other devil hiding places. Two Tokyo-area temples, Shinshoji in Narita and Daishi in Kawasaki, are particularly well-known for this ceremony, but temples everywhere observe the practice.
Hachinohe, on the coast not far from Misawa, celebrates another “spring” event on Feb. 17-20, the Emburi Matsuri. An emburi is a hand tool used for smoothing mud in rice paddies, and this festival features rice-planting dances and other events to honor the Shinto god Inari. Inari, probably the most popular Shinto god, is often represented by his messenger, the fox, and since this area still has foxes they play a large role in the dances. On the other hand, this is northern Honshu, and not really spring, so there probably won’t be much actual rice planting.
For those who can’t bring themselves to call February “spring,” check out the Yuki Matsuri, the Sapporo Snow Festival, from Feb. 5-11. If you haven’t made reservations already, you’ll probably find the local tours offices are fully booked, so bribe someone for their reservation or put yourself on a waiting list. Even people who think yuki (snow) is yucky rate the Sapporo Snow Festival — and the city of Sapporo — as one of Japan’s top attractions, and one of their favorite memories of Japan.
Snow sculptures built many stories high are the festival’s chief draw. Since 1987 is the Year of the Rabbit, there will probably be a bumper crop of giant, incredibly detailed bunnies, along with the huge reproductions of famous buildings (in snow, of course), animals, people, corporate logos, and anything else the builders dream up. One of the most astonishing exhibits is an actual, working Shinto shrine, constructed anew each year from carved ice.
Sapporo is also a popular spot for skiing and other winter sports, and served as host to the 1972 Winter Olympics. Several ski areas can be reached by subway from the city, a convenience which may be a Sapporo exclusive.
There are, of course, ski areas on Honshu. Base tour outlets and equipment rental shops will set you up with transportation, skis, boots, poles, and sometimes even a combination guide and instructor. You’ll find the snow is the same as back home, but the obstacles tend to be a little different.
February has only one national holiday, Kenkoku Kinen no Hi (National Foundation Day) on Feb. 11. This controversial celebration is Japan’s equivalent of the fourth of July, honoring the legendary founding of Japan on Feb. 11, 660 B.C., by the Emperor Jimmu. Historians trace Japan’s founding back to the year A.D. 500 or so, and there are some complaints that this holiday attributes more power to the emperor than his constitutional role allows. While this is a great topic for heated discussion, in practical terms note that trains will operate on holiday schedules, and banks, government offices, and many businesses will be closed for this holiday.
Believe it or not, this is also a good month for visiting Tokyo. Book a room at the New Sanno Hotel, make reservations for dinner at Wellington’s (try the Beef Wellington), and use the hotel as a base for seeing the city. This is definitely not the tourist season, so you won’t have to stand in line or battle the crowds to see the sights. Since pandas like cold weather, be sure to drop by Ueno zoo and see the pandas, particularly the cub — it’s a cutie.
Finally, if you just can’t seem to develop a passion for February, pester your tours office for reservations for next month’s Nagoya Fertility Festival. There isn’t space here to go into what a “Fertility Festival” is about. If you’re brave, you can always ask someone who’s been there, provided you don’t mind a bit of snickering.